Monday, October 02, 2017

Bologna la Grassa

On our second day in Bologna (our only full day really), we didn't have much of a plan but ended up doing most of the things I did already on my first trip to Bologna. I suppose there isn't all that much to see. But it was enjoyable again the second time, so no complaints from me. The first time was in winter, complete with snow. This time, it rained, so it wasn't so different really. This once again proved the value of Bologna's many covered porticos, as well as the importance for sitting down for a long and ample meal.

First stop was the Anatomical Theatre, once part of the University of Bologna, the world's oldest university. It's compact and somehow cosy, due to the all-wood panelling, despite the grotesque depictions of flayed bodies and the marble slab in the middle to remind you of its original purpose of displaying dissections.

In the Anatomical Theatre
The "Skinless" statues by Ercole Lelli
Apollo hovering above the dissection table

The corridors are decorated with thousands of coats-of-arms and memorials to teachers and students


The "Stabat Mater" reading room



Jules in one of the famous porticoes
In the middle of town, we stumbled across a "ragu fest", dedicated to Bologna's famous culinary traditions. It actually wasn't the most exciting of festivals (not enough free samples!) but it was fun to walk around for a little, and it felt like another little serendipitous moment of honeymoon fun.

Ragu fest


Did Sophia Loren really star in a paean to Bologna's favourite sausage?


New friend
A slightly sulky lunch of tortellini in brodo, while it poured outside. The rowdy Italian family behind us were being very rowdy and Italian
The sun came out while we were lunching, and we popped into Santo Stefano, or the seven churches, another repeat from my previous visit. Dating back perhaps as far as the 5th century, these preserve a special atmosphere even though they were more crowded than on my winter trip.


In front of the ancient Church of the Holy Sepulchre


Animal attacks

Altar inside the Holy Sepulchre
So we actually accomplished quite a bit in Bologna, while seeming not really to do anything at all. One thing we definitely did do was eat. A lot. Platters of sliced meat and cheese, tortellini, tortelloni, ravioli, ragu bolognese.... even between the two of us, there was a lot going on. Hence why they call Bologna "La Grassa", or "the fat"!

Making friends with our rival tower Asinelli

Piazza Maggiore by night

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